12 May 2016

Crystal Luxury Air to Lloyd Werft Shipyards, 9-11 May 2016

Okay boys and girls, today we are going to try something a bit different: an actual travel report. I was going to post this earlier, but then wifi problems intervened. But it's still before midnight in the current local time (although not Finnish time), so here goes:

The Crystal Luxury Air jet that flew me from Italy to Germany and back again.
During the past three days, I have been whisked away from one press function to another, with one unifying theme: Crystal Cruises. As you already know, I'm sailing on the Crystal Symphony as a press representative on their Sales Gala cruise. But on Monday, 9 May, the cruise was interrupted by what Ralph Grizzle of The Avid Cruiser described as the longest shore excursion any of us had ever taken.

Early Monday morning, our group of 12 people (nine journalists and three people from Crystal, including the President and CEO Edie Rodriguez) got off the ship at Crotone and transferred to Crotone airport and the awaiting Crystal Luxury Air Bombardier Global Express XRS jet.

Inside the jet - which will hopefully get a proper name at some point, making it much easier to write about. Sitting closest to the camera is John Honeywell, alias Captain Greybeard.

Now I don't like flying. I never have. Apart from the fact that it's fast, I find it has nothing to defend it as a method of transport. Crystal's first aircraft made me change my mind. The small plane is quite simply gorgeous. For the first time in my (adult) life there is enough leg space, the service is fantastic, the food is fresh and tasty, and because it's a private jet then security procedures are much simplified.

The buffet for our little two-hour flight. Notice, on the plate, the actual menu for the meals available; the buffet was just for little snack things.

All this does come at a price: flying with the 12-seater plane sets you back 8 000 US dollars per hour, plus possible extra expenses. That 8 000 gets you the entire aircraft, however, so with a group sharing the price it might be worth it. I'm fairly certain I'll never be able to afford the plane with my income, but being able to fly with it from Italy to Germany and back was an experience I will not soon forget.

So, a little over two hours we had left Crotone we landed in Bremen, from where we transferred to a bus that speeded us to the nearby town of Bremerhaven and the Lloyd Werft shipyard for the opening of the Lloyd Werft Design Center. As eaders are probably aware, Genting Hong Kong (who also own Crystal Cruises) bought Lloyd Werft last year and quickly made evident their intention to build a series of new ships for Crystal at the yard. Subsequently, Genting also acquired the Nordic Yards company with three shipyards in Wismar, Warnemünde and Stralsund, which were recently merged with Lloyd Werft to form Lloyd Werft group. With the new Crystal Cruises ships in the works, Lloyd Werft group needs to radically expand their design capacity, thus the new Design Center, which is located in Lloyd Werft's former administrative building. Interestingly, the red brick house was originally built as a laundry to serve the ocean liners of Norddeutsche Lloyd (North German Lloyd) who, as the name suggests, were also the original owners of the shipyard.

Opening ceremony - or more precisely, after the opening ceremony - of Lloyd Werft Design Center (we actually arrived late and missed a part of the celebrations).

In fact, the Lloyd Werft Design Center will be fully operational on 30 May. As other related ceremonies were to be held this week, the yard decided to hold the opening ceremony at the same time. At least from the point of view of international coverage this was a smart move.

Edie Rodriguez of Crystal Cruises (left) with Rüdinger Pallentin of Lloyd Werft (right) shortly before the steel cutting for Crystal's first newbuilt river yachts commenced-
After lunch and a brief tour of the Design Center, it was back to a bus and towards our next destination: a factory in Bremen that Lloyd Werft had subcontracted to do the steel work of Crystal Cruises' four new luxury river yachts, the Crystal Debussy, Crystal Bach, Crystal Ravel and Crystal Mahler. Following instructions from one of the workers Edie Rodriguez pushed the button and the first piece of the new river cruise ships – a rather intricate shape – was cut. Although marketed as a quartet, the new ships are actually two not-identical pairs: the Crystal Debussy and Crystal Ravel will be 110 metres long and accommodate 80 passengers in lower berths while the Crystal Bach and Crystal Mahler will be larger at 135 metres and 110 passengers. Regardless of size, all four are slated to enter service on the rivers of Central Europe in 2017.

The steel cutting machine made an impressive shower of sparks.

With the steel suitably cut, we left Bremen for Wismar (stopping en route for dinner at an obscure but pleasant town with the name Bargdeheide). In Wismar we checked in at a hotel for well-deserved rest after what had essentially been a 15-hour day.

The morning of our second day started off leisurely in Wismar; I took the time to find a shop selling hair gel and sunscreen (both of which I had forgotten to bring along), as well as try to find some buildings dating from East German era – Wismar lying just to the east of the border that divided Germany for over five decades. After that, it was time for another bus ride, this time to a business building near Lloyd Werft Group's Wismar yard where, we were promised, the actual contracts to build the first series of ships for Crystal Cruises would be signed (interestingly, this included the contracts for the four river ships that had already begun construction the day before!).

A random shot I snapped from Wismar's Old Town in the morning. Later on, I realised that the large building you see in the distance is Lloyd Werft's Wismar yard, so the image becomes highly appropriate.
However, as we arrived on site, I noticed there was an extra flag waving outside the venue: in addition to the to-be expected flags of Genting Hong Kong, Crystal Cruises and Lloyd Werft, there was also the flag of Star Cruises. This immediately got me thinking: would we see a new contract from Genting's first cruise brand today too? Entering the press room proved my hunch correct: proundly displayed were renderings of a new, large ship in Star Cruises colours. Once the press conference finally got underway, we learned that Crystal Cruises and Star Cruises were contracting no less than ten ships that day, for a combined price of 3,5 billion euros: six river cruise ships for Crystal (so two more than had previously been reported), as well as two ocean-going ships for the same company (an expedition yacht and the first of the projected three large Exclusive Class ships), and a pair of no less than 201 000 gross ton, 5 000 passenger mega cruise ships for Star Cruises, known as the Global class. And all ships are due to be delivered by 2020. Not a small feat, and no wonder they need to enlarge the design department!

Staff of the shipyard and Genting explain the cabin layout of Crystal Cruises' future ships to the assorted media. I hope they change the wall covering into something more refined in the final version.
After the contract signing and press conference, we took the bus once again, this time to the actual Lloyd Werft Group Wismar shipyard, where mock-ups giving an idea of the cabin size for Crystal's new ships had been erected, alongside with mock-ups showing the layout and size of cabins belonging to brands X and Y (which many in our group speculated were Seabourn and Silversea, though these theories were neither confirmed nor denied by the yard's staff). The standard cabins of the new Crystal ships are going to be, simply put, huge. Even on the river yachts, with their relatively small dimensions, the cabins will be circa 25 square metres, with the figure rising to 32 m2 on the ocean yacht Crystal Endeavour and a whopping 35 m2 on the Exclusive-class ocean ships. Not only that, but the ocean-going ships will have much higher ceiling heights than normal; holding up my arm, I could barely touch the ceiling – and I'm 190 centimetres tall, so there's a lot of reach there.

Assorted journalists and shipyard staff at Lloyd Werft, with Crystal's Edie Rodriguez andPaul Garcia in the center.
The tour of the mock-ups was followed by dinner at Wismar's historical city city hall. Following another night's sleep, we left early the next morning for the Lübeck airport, from where the as-of-yet-unnamed Crystal Luxury Air jet flew us to Naples. For the second time in my life, I was actually a big reticient to leave and airplane (the first time had, of course, been two days earlier, flying on the same plane in the opposite direction). Another bus took us from Naples airport to Sorrento, where we finally got back onboard the Crystal Symphony, after what seemed a lot longer than just 53 hours.

Back to the jet and the awaiting Crystal Symphony at the end of a superb two-day-plus tour.
This is Kalle Id, signing off from the balcony of cabin 8050 onboard the Crystal Symphony. Kships, as usual, will return.

Edited 14.5.2016: added author of the longest shore excursion quote.

08 May 2016

Crystal Symphony in Argostoli, 8 May 2016

Crystal Symphony

IMO 9066667
Built 1995, Kvaerner Masa Yards Turku New Shipyard, Finland
Tonnage 51 044 GT
Length 238,01 m
Width 30,20 m
Draught 7,60 m
1 010 passengers
6 Sultzer diesels, combined 38 880 kW
2 propellers
2 bow thrusters
1 stern thruster
Speed 22 knots

Today, we have our finger on the pulse of events. As you may remember from the last entry, I'm currently on the Crystal Symphony, cruising the Aegean. A more proper reportage from onboard the ship will follow once I have the chance to photograph the interiors more thoroughly (and am not dependant on the fairly slow,though very much appriciated, onboard wifi). But, here are some photos of the Crystal Symphony today at Argostoli, Greece.

Not an unpleasant backdrop for a photo, I say.
Of course, she's another Finnish-built one, so I'm contractually obliged to like her.
Incidentally, she's based on Wärtsilä's all outside ship design that was premiered in 1984 on the then-Royal Princess (sailing today as the Artania)
Also a decent rear on her, if you know what I mean.
Next time we will, hopefully, move to the interiors of the same ship.

04 May 2016

Tycho Brahe inside and out, 13-14 April 2016

Today, we are taking a bit of a break from the usual format of separate entries for interior and exterior photographs. Bear with me here.

Tycho Brahe

IMO 9007116
Built 1991, Tangen Verft Kragerø, Norway (hull) and Langsten Slip & Båtbyggeri Tomrefjorden, Norway (outfitting)
Tonnage 10 845 GT
Length 110,20 m
Width 28,20 m
Draught 5,50 m
1 250 passengers
240 cars
4 Wärtsilä-Vaasa diesels, combined 9 840 kW
2 propellers at both ends
Speed 14,5 knots

The Tycho Brahe, named after the Danish astronomer (and indeed one of the best ship names out there if you ask me), was the first new ship delivered to Scandlines in 1991. Scandlines itself was established the same year as a joint venture between DSB and SweFerry (the shipping arms of the Swedish national rail company) to operate the ferry service between Helsingborg and Helsingør. The Tycho Brahe was owned by DSB, but painted from the start in Scandlines colours (the original livery was different from the one carried today). The ship was delivered to its owners in October of 1991, and proceeded to have a large number of accidents, both during the early test sailings and after entering service, the most serious of which was ramming the Helsingør ferry terminal at eight knots, which left 55 people hospitalised and earned the ship the nickname "Psycho Brahe".

After the initial difficulties, the Tycho Brahe has sailed on the Helsinborg-Helsingør -route without accident. The ship has changed owners several times, however; in 1995 it passed from DSB to DS Rederi AS, and in 1998 to Scandlines, which became a company in its own right in 1997 when DSB's ferry division and the German company Deutsche Fährgesellschaft Ostsee (DFO) merged. In recent years, Scandlines have been selling off parts of their operations and in 2015 the Helsingborg-Helsingør -service passed to the Australia-based investment company First State (who also took over the Stena Line -owned ships on the route). For the time being, the service continues to be marketed under the Scandlines brand, but the registered owner for all the First State -owned ships is HH-Ferries and thus it seems likely a name change will follow happen in the future.

Now that the history bit is cleared out, a few words about travelling on the route: what a fascinating experience. The crossing is just 20 minutes, but the ship has a surprisingly comfortable sitting lounge (plus a separate lounge for passengers with a loyalty card), a cafeteria, a large shop, a bar and even a proper restaurant. I'm told the latter is used by people doing a return crossing or several (a single one takes 50 minutes) to have a nice night out at the restaurant. It's on the Helsingør-pointing bow of the ship, so the view is pretty nice too. In fact, all the passenger spaces with proper windows are towards the Danish side - an interesting and presumably extremely intentional feature on a Danish-flagged ship.

But yes, the photos. The exterior shots show the ship arriving at Helsingborg harbour on the evening of 13 April 2016, while the interior shots were taken on a crossing from Helsingborg to Helsingør the following day. As always, click on the images to see them in larger size.


A lot of punch packed into a small package with that ship. And the exterior design isn't that bad, though she is in need of a fresh lick of paint.
The Tycho Brahe arrives, while the similar-but-not-identical Hamlet prepares to depart.
The sitting area at the Helsingør-pointing end, with the glass partition in the back separating the loyalty card lounge - which, nicely enough, doesn't hog the best views.
The cafeteria amidships on the lowest passenger deck (which probably had a number, but I've completely forgotten it).
View from the cafeteria to the shop (and Helsingborg behind it).
The bar on the deck above, with the entrance to the restaurant visible in the back. Alas, it was closed so I could not photograph it.
A neat staircase with pop art style painting leads to the top deck, which has an outdoors area at the Helsingør end (if there's one thing to criticise it's the lack of Helsingborg-facing outer decks).
Next time: I will be on the Crystal Symphony next week, so it remains to be seen if there will be an update next week. I'll hazard no guess on the subject yet.

28 April 2016

Sea Endurance in Helsingborg, 13 April 2016

Sea Endurance

IMO 8913904
Name history: Saqquit Ittuk, Disko II, Quest, Sea Endurance
Built 1992, Ørskov Staalskibsværft Frederikshavn, Denmark
Tonnage 1 268 GT
Length 49,65 m
Width 11,10 m
Draught 3,70 m
60 passengers
1 MAN-B&W diesel, combined 1 470 kW
1 propeller
1 bow thruster
Speed 13,4 knots

I think I mentioned in one of my earlier entries that I met with a surprise cruise ship while in Helsingborg recently. It was this one, the delightful little Sea Endurance, owned by SunStone Ships and due to be operated this summer by Albatros Expeditions. The ship has a fascinating history, on which I'd like to dwelve a bit deeper.

Originally, the Sea Endurance was one of three identical ships built for services with Arctic Umiaq Line along the coast of Greenland (Hurtigruten of Greenland would perhaps not be far off the mark). Designed by the Knud E. Hansen naval architect office and built by Ørskov in Denmark, the trio of ships were named Sarfaq Ittuk, Sarpik Ittuq and Saqqit Ittuk (the latter being "our ship"). I presume all names mean something in Greenlandic, but haven't been able to discover what. Originally, all three ships carried 150 passengers. The original livery of all three was quite eye-catching, a bright red hull with a turquise stripe along the main deck windows, and a yellow funnel.

The Sarfaq Ittuk and Sarpik Ittuq were both lengthened by a tad over 23 metres in 2000. The Saqqit Ittuk, meanwhile, retained her original dimensions. Here the details are a bit murky. My friend Bruce Peter gives the impression in his book Knud E. Hansen A/S - Ship Design Through Seven Decades that the three-ship service had proven expensive to run, and thus the Sarfaq Ittuk and Sarpik Ittuq were lengthened to allow the service to be run on just two ships. If this is the case, what did the Saqqit Ittuk do after the other ships were lengthened?

What can be said for certain is that in 2004 the Saqqit Ittuk sailed to exotic Tallinn, where she was converted to an expedition cruise ship with the name Disko II (after the Disko Bay on the west coast of Greenland, not the music genre). An observation lounge appears to have been added on her top deck at this point. After the conversion, the Disco II returned to Greenland, but now obviously as a cruise ship. In 2007 she passed under the ownership of International Shipping Partners and was renamed Quest, but continued in cruise service and appears to have continued to cruise around Greenland during the summers. At some point after 2007 the ship's aft superstructure was expanded; this may have been done during the winter 2009-2010, when she was laid up in Helsingborg.

In 2012, the Quest's owners International Shipping Partners merged with River Advice to form FleetPro. The change of owners had no particular effect in her operations. Another change in owners took place in late 2015, when FleetPro's seagoing operations became SunStone Ships. In April 2016, just a few days before I visited Helsingborg, the Quest was renamed Sea Endurance. (A purely personal opinion: Sea Endurance is a better name than Quest, but overall the ship has gone from bad to worse with names; Saqqit Ittuk, while difficult to pronounce, is by far the best name she ever had, and even the confusing Disko II was better than the current or previous name).

The Sea Endurance is due to enter service with Albatros Expeditions next summer. Somewhat amusingly, one of her future fleetmates is the Ocean Nova, aka the former Sarpik Ittuq. (Of the three sisters, only the Sarfaq Ittuk remains in the service they were built for).

So, to the photos! These show the recently-renamed Sea Endurance laid up in Helsingborg on the evening of 13 April 2016. As per the usual, click on the images to see them in larger size.

At this point, they had only painted the name of the ship on the port side; as you can see the starboard side had only a reddish brown smudge. The ship was turned around the next day, so presumably the name was painted on the other side as well.
The lifeboat that drowns out the funnel - a post-2007 addition - does not particularly improve the ship's looks. But I can't really complain about her working ship profile.
Sea Endurance, with Helsingborg's impressive Rådhuset (Town Hall) in the background.
No name in the stern either at this point.
Kships will return.

21 April 2016

Pearl Seaways interiors, 14 April 2016

Pearl Seaways

IMO 8701674
Name history: Athena, Star Aquarius, Langkapuri Star Aquarius, Pearl of Scandinavia, Pearl Seaways
Built 1989, Wärtsilä Marine Turku, Finland
Tonnage 40 039 GT
Length 178,40 m
Width 29,61 m
Draught 6,50 m
2 200 passengers
2 166 berths
320 cars
1 008 lanemeters
4 Wärtsilä-Sulzer diesels, combined 23 730 kW
2 propellers
2 bow thrusters
Speed 21 knots

Even though this is the first time the Pearl Seaways is featured on this blog, I decided I won't be explaining the history of the ship for you, as I normally would in such a situation. Instead, I would like to say a few words about what sailing with DFDS was like.

This wasn't the first time I've sailed with DFDS, of course. I was on the Princess of Scandinavia shortly before she was withdrawn from service (interior photos from that ship here), and I've always remembered that trip fondly as one of the best ferry crossings I have ever undertaken. I was eager to see if DFDS had kept up their quality.

They had. The Pearl Seaways was, quite simply put, the best ferry I have sailed on in terms of service (except, perhaps, for the much-missed Silja Opera, but then again she wasn't technically a ferry anyway). The interiors were quite swish, but more important was the service quality. Table service for drinks at the night club and the buffet is something my local Baltic Sea ferries do not offer (not to mention a pot of coffee brought to your table at breakfast!). And when I asked the staff if it was okay to photograph the restaurant spaces when they were empty, the answer was "of course!" A certain ferry operator sailing from Finland should take notes.

I was boring and only ate at the buffet. The selection was perhaps not as extensive as, for example, on the ships of Viking Line, but the quality of what was on offer more than made up for it. Not to mention the fact there was a proper vegetarian option. In that respect, all the ferry operators from my home waters should take notes. I ate at the first seating, but that was very much a mistake: sailing from Copenhagen you have the wonderful views at Öresund (and sailing from Oslo the Oslofjord), which really should be enjoyed from the outer deck with a camera. So my recommendation is to go and eat only after passing the twin cities of Helsingborg/Helsingør.

Not everything onboard was perfect. The buffet had no dessert plates, there were intrusive announcements in the cabins and the beds (or at least my bed) lacked mattress toppers, making them quite uncomfortable. I was also rather surprised and disappointed that DFDS' 150th anniversary book was not sold onboard.

But, even with the little criticism, still the best ferry experience I've had. And it was certainly fascinating so see an old Viking Line ferry in a completely new guise.

Now, onwards to the photos. All were taken onboard the Pearl Seaways in the afternoon or evening of 14 April 2016. As per the usual, click on the images to see them in larger size.

Deck 11 has suites forward (added in a recent refit), a lounge exclusively for the use of Commodore Class passengers, conference rooms and an outdoors bar aft. I didn't venture into the conference rooms for photographing as there was a sign "for conference guests only" on the door.

This used to be a forward-facing sun deck, until the suites - the structure right in front of us in this photo - were added in 2014 (I think). The suites are only accessible via the outer deck, so all in all this is a very strange addition (especially as there seem to be underutilised spaces lower down on the ship, where the suites could have been more practically added).
The Sky Bar aft on deck 11. Notice the funnel, in DFDS' new dark blue colours. I rather like them, but alas the trip didn't give decent chances to photograph the ship from the outside.
Deck 10 is given over exclusively to cabins, but there are also jacuzzis on the outer deck aft (presumably a relic from the ship's time as a cruise ship). My cabin happened to be on this deck.

The forward staircase, photographed from the 10th deck langing up towards deck 11. I like the nautical photos, but I'm a bit disappointed they aren't ones of DFDS' own old ships (although there are several of those, as well as models of old DFDS ships, on the public room decks).
A blast from the past: the cabin corridors look like they haven't been altered since 1989, except for the cabin doors which have been painted white. Most of them seem to be original panelled doors, although some have been changed into non-panelled ones. The mix of the two looks a bit cheap, and in general the cabin corridors and not up to the same standards as the rest of the ship.
Blast from the past, part 2. Notice how the colour of the bed headboard matches the corridor walls outside.
The jacuzzi aft. The one on port side was in use, so I photographed this one. I quite regretted not packing swimwear.
Deck 9 has more cabins and the navigation bridge.

Deck 8 is the upper of the main public room decks, with four restaurants (Blue Riband, Marco Polo, Little Italy and Explorer's), three bars (Navigators Bar, Red+White and Champagne Bar) and a night club (Columbus Club).

Blue Riband is a banquet space reserved for large groups at the forward end of deck eight. It really feels like a waste of space, the best views on the ship and the space is not normally in use.
Blue Riband in flanked by two different speciality restaurants on either side. Little Italy - you guessed it, an italian restaurant, is on the starboard side.
While the port side has the Marco Polo fine dining restaurant.
Aft of Marco Polo is this weird space, originally (when the ship was Viking Line's Athena) this was the gournet restaurant Safir. Now it seems to function as an overspill space for Marco Polo.
The two-deck atrium spanning from deck seven and eight is rather nice.
Explorer's steakhouse is amidship on deck eight, in the area originally occupied by the ship's buffet restaurant.
For some reason, one table - but only one - had the dannebrog on display. I had to document it, of course.
This - I think - is the Navigators Bar. But I'm not 100% certain, as DFDS didn't provide a deck plan and I didn't photograph the ones on the walls (which were very good), so this could also be the Champagne Bar.
The Columbus Club had absolutely superb views. I wonder if the coloured lights on the ceiling above the dance floor are original?
Most chairs in the space were dark, except a few in the aft starboard corner that were purple. These were identical apart from the colour, but still they seemed to be the most popular seats in the club.
Deck 7 has the buffet restaurant forward, followed by the atrium, a casino, cafeteria and some cabins amidships, and the Sea Shop aft. The atrium was, of course, originally the ship's entrance lobby, but today only the entrances on deck five are used in both ports.

7 Seas buffet (note that it's written with a numeral, not "Seven Seas") looks quite neat and probably has the best views of all spaces onboard. The double height right at the front is a nice bonus.
Another 7 Seas shot. The servery areas are in the background on the left.
I'll spare you the food photos, but I just wanted to share this eminently civilized coffee pot that was brought to my table as if by magic.
Baresso Coffee, with the entrance to the tax-free shop in the background.
Deck 6 has the bubble zone pool and sauna area forward, followed by cabins.

Deck 5 has more cabins, as well as the entrance lobby.

Deck 3 and 4 are the car decks.

(Deck 2 had additional cabins when the ship was new, but these don't seem to be in passenger use anymore. I don't complain.)

Kships will return.